Baggage - a loaded word, for sure. It sounds heavy, something to be labored with or requiring effort to maintain.
Possessions - a word making finite what we own. Protective, defensive, hopefully appreciative and proud feelings present themselves when thinking about our possessions.
Now, consider our true possessions. What, of the entire mass, comes to mind as truly ours? Where does the rest truly belong?
During my 15 years as a professional housekeeper, I cared for 50 families by tending their possessions. My clientele was as varied as I could arrange, from living in extreme luxury to extreme frugality. All along this scale, there were examples of simple pleasures and utter chaos. My nonjudgmental nature allowed me to welcome all comers on equal footing. The relationship between housekeeper and client is interesting: I was instrumental in maintaining their health, safety and comfort but the weight of the housekeeper's suggestions on how to prevent mold and the warning of dangerous clutter on the stairs was ineffective against their habits. Initially I was alarmed but soon learned it was my business to maintain their possessions and not my business to teach. I learned to merely observe the effects their excessive possessions had on them and me. This objectivity was my first step toward understanding physical baggage and its connection to emotional baggage.
Early in my housekeeping career, I worked for a family who wanted for nothing. Their home was luxurious and roomy. Most of what they possessed was kept in cavernous closets in the climate controlled basement. They decided to spend a year abroad and moved all their possessions into storage: autos, furniture, baby grand piano, cool light fixtures, everything. While they were away, they had their house burned to the ground and a new house built on the same spot. I do not recommend burning your house down, even when empty, but a near magical thing happened when they returned. After a year away from their possessions, they rediscovered what they missed and noticed what of their stuff really didn't matter after all.
I tried my version of this physical distancing, having a huge amount of stuff at the time. I packed up half of my kitchen and stored it in the attic for six months. Some things I really missed, most I didn't. My true possessions stood right out. What I didn't miss I split between the men's halfway house and the women's shelter. Instantly, my baggage became true possessions to those who needed them. The reward of loosening the baggage was two fold - physically, working in the kitchen was easier and emotionally, the joy of observing a problem and taking care of it was powerful. My kitchen was now a safer place, easier to maintain. I made it so by being objective and getting some distance from my possessions.
Emotional objectivity was extremely helpful as I continued to merely observe my habits and possessions. My next success was decluttering my workspace. I wasn't very productive at my desk. It was surrounded by tools and materials for seven different artistic pursuits: macrame, wood carving, mask making, painting, sewing, rubber stamping and beading. When I had spare time there wasn't adequate space, so I spent it digging through the stuff, moving it out of the way, which resulted in frustration and sadness at the wasted time and for projects I'd never get to. Finally, I had enough torment and gave away everything except sewing, beading and rubber stamping, which all fit nicely in three dresser drawers. No more emotional baggage. The sadness and frustration was replaced with the joy of sending those art supplies to a high school drama department, a daycare and to the guys at the halfway house who were delighted to have them. In retrospect, I don't miss those supplies a bit and it seems strange that I didn't recognize them for what they were. By loosening the baggage, I was setting the stage for my next act. I now teach housekeeping and spend many productive hours at my desk. In my spare time, materials are ready and I have room to be creative. Empty space is now a valued possession.
I continued to merely observe and to learn from my clients who were avid collectors. I observed a snow globe collection so vast that the boxes upon boxes of snow globes completely filled two bedrooms and along the hallway wall from floor to ceiling. We had to walk sideways in the hallway. None were on display as I recall. Another client collected figurines. They were all on display, everywhere, and they all had sweet little faces looking up. This collection was well tended: they were dusted periodically and most were displayed in glass cases. This client was extremely good at organizing, which enabled her to properly display her entire collection. Inspired to consider my own collections, I asked myself, do my collections nurture me or do they complicate my life? The answer to my question was, I had two collections that stressed me out.
Every morning was a chore to get dressed because I had over 200 short sleeved t-shirts and plenty more with long sleeves and no sleeves. The torture of overflowing clothing had to become extreme before objectivity was possible. I wanted them all. In this case, I had to become my own Mom in my head and make rules for myself. I could keep seven black t-shirts and one of every other color. That's it. I pulled out all 200 + of them and I shopped from my own stuff. I chose the best fitting, best looking ones and... most of the rest were donated. I did reward myself for my genuinely focused effort by cutting the fronts out of nine of the black ones for my quilting pile. I kept one of each of the other colors; one light pink, one medium pink and one dark pink, etc. It wasn't easy but with rewards, like a good Mom would bestow, I selected 20 t-shirts total and took the rest to Goodwill. All of my clothes, all seasons and shoes now fit in one regular sized closet and two dressers. I feel the reward everyday. Achieving emotional distance by obeying my mental Mom's rules, coupled with the physical distancing of shopping for my true possessions from the entire mass of my clothes, then paying for them by letting the baggage go was very empowering.
My collection of family artwork was a complicated problem and required a different solution. This collection was made for us by us, so I need to keep it all. The cure was to rotate the exhibit like museums do. In autumn, I display the water color of pumpkins and the straw man sculpture and pack away the summery oil painting of gladiolas. In winter, photos of the snow couple, winter rainbows and the creche replace the straw man and pumpkin. Twice a year I handle all of these precious pieces. My relationship with these possessions is caring and personal where before they were competing for space and a chore to dust. If you choose to possess a thing, you must be responsible for it's care. Keeping that in mind will help you identify baggage before you possess it.
Human beings are wonderfully made. We are self-aware and self-determining but these abilities have been manipulated by advertising for many generations. Reclaim your self-awareness by merely observing how society's materialism has come into your life. Assert your self-determination by being objective of your purchasing habits. Consider each dollar you spend as a dollar vote cast in favor of the manufacturer, advertiser and retailer's business practices. This may help you determine the true value of what you choose to own. Do your possessions nurture you or add more stress? Distance yourself from your possessions, then ask, what of our stuff do we have a safe, healthy and comfortable relationship with and where will the baggage find it's true value?
I teach sustainable housekeeping and blog on any of many housekeeping topics. Using the seasons as a guide, I share what I've learned about practical home care. Being conscious of what you're doing as you maintain your home, makes housekeeping "house keeping" instead of "house work". Check my facebook page for dates of my Sustainable Housekeeping Class. Thank you!
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
Friday, March 7, 2014
March through the End of Winter
We are Marching through the last of the winter and into spring. This weekend promises to the be warmest since last fall and we don't need to be told twice to enjoy it!! I have suggestions on how to use the above freezing temps and glorious sunshine to our best advantage.
We will soon open our windows wide to let fresh, relatively warmer air into our homes. Before you open the street side windows, be ready with a wet paper towel to wipe the window sills. I rarely recommend using paper towels; they are wasteful and generally unnecessary, expensive to buy and those dollars support the unhealthy manufacturing process of bleaching paper. This is one instance where protecting our immediate health calls for getting pollutants quickly and completely out of our homes. A wet paper towel does it well.
The black "dirt" on the windowsills on the street side is mostly road dirt. That same blackness saturates the snow banks. It is an accumulation of auto exhaust, ground rubber tires and lead. The lead comes from metal weights auto mechanics use to balance our tires. Lead weights are soft and malleable; perfect for attaching to tire rims. Lead is relatively heavy, even in small pieces; perfect as weights. When the wheels go round and round, vibrations shake those lead weights off. Their softness and weight is then perfect for traffic to grind them into fine lead dust on the roadways. The dust mixes with the rest of the road dirt, gets kicked up and settles on snowbanks in winter, curbs and sidewalks all year long and settles on windowsills on the street side of our homes. Lead is extremely toxic when breathed in or ingested.
Another ingredient of road dirt comes from inside the combustible engines of our cars. Inside the engine is a hellish scene. The compression and explosion ignites fossil fuel, with the additives, shredding the molecules of the fuel, the metal of the engine itself, the oil and gaskets. These super heated, super shredded, toxic, metal and fuel molecules are blown out the tail pipe, whooshed up and around by the aerodynamics of vehicles in motion and of the air herself. These pollutants settle to the ground and on everything within many yards of the road. These pollutants then come into our homes on our shoes, clothes, hair, face and on our pet's feet and coat. These toxic molecules are also the blackness on the street side windowsills.
The smaller the particles, the harder it is for our lungs to expel them. These small molecules get into the cilia lining the insides of our lungs and are too small for the cilia to move out. Wipe these window sills with a wet paper towel so the road dirt doesn't blow around or shake off and throw it right in the trash.
It may be early yet to throw open the windows wide so there is still time to get some pre open window dusting done. The longer dust sits undisturbed the more harmful it is to breathe. Dust mites can colonize quickly when left to do so. The old dust doesn't freak me out quite as much as the build up of road dirt, but if you have breathing issues or allergies, use wet paper towels because you don't want to breathe this old dust. Wipe off the inside sills, the baseboards, heat sources, tops of window and door frames, tops of wall art, ceiling light fixtures and lamp shades. Get behind and under furniture this time of year because when the warmish winds of spring start to blow through our homes, all that dust is going to kick up from behind and under. We'll be breathing it in and indoor house dust contains plenty of bad chemistry, dead bug parts and dried bug poop. We don't want to breathe that stuff.
The great news is, this late winter, early spring air is freshly cleaned by the extreme cold. Even in the heart of the city, this air is considerably more oxygenated than the over breathed air inside our homes. Dust first, then let the fresh air in.
Now let's talk about using the sunshine to our advantage. Sunlight is very cleansing. Now is a great time to take the couch cushions, couch and bed pillows, comforters and blankets outside and shake the dust off. Hang or lay these cushy comforts in the sunshine to stop mold and mildew spores from growing. The cold, dry air is death to dust mites. Squeeze the old air out of the pillows and cushions until you can feel the coldness in them. They'll warm up again when you bring them inside and they'll be refreshed, refreshing you in the process.
Enjoy the free, healing and cleaning power of cold, dry air and sharp sunshine while we have it. It will be hot, humid and hazy soon enough. Well, maybe not soon enough, but soon.
We will soon open our windows wide to let fresh, relatively warmer air into our homes. Before you open the street side windows, be ready with a wet paper towel to wipe the window sills. I rarely recommend using paper towels; they are wasteful and generally unnecessary, expensive to buy and those dollars support the unhealthy manufacturing process of bleaching paper. This is one instance where protecting our immediate health calls for getting pollutants quickly and completely out of our homes. A wet paper towel does it well.
The black "dirt" on the windowsills on the street side is mostly road dirt. That same blackness saturates the snow banks. It is an accumulation of auto exhaust, ground rubber tires and lead. The lead comes from metal weights auto mechanics use to balance our tires. Lead weights are soft and malleable; perfect for attaching to tire rims. Lead is relatively heavy, even in small pieces; perfect as weights. When the wheels go round and round, vibrations shake those lead weights off. Their softness and weight is then perfect for traffic to grind them into fine lead dust on the roadways. The dust mixes with the rest of the road dirt, gets kicked up and settles on snowbanks in winter, curbs and sidewalks all year long and settles on windowsills on the street side of our homes. Lead is extremely toxic when breathed in or ingested.
Another ingredient of road dirt comes from inside the combustible engines of our cars. Inside the engine is a hellish scene. The compression and explosion ignites fossil fuel, with the additives, shredding the molecules of the fuel, the metal of the engine itself, the oil and gaskets. These super heated, super shredded, toxic, metal and fuel molecules are blown out the tail pipe, whooshed up and around by the aerodynamics of vehicles in motion and of the air herself. These pollutants settle to the ground and on everything within many yards of the road. These pollutants then come into our homes on our shoes, clothes, hair, face and on our pet's feet and coat. These toxic molecules are also the blackness on the street side windowsills.
The smaller the particles, the harder it is for our lungs to expel them. These small molecules get into the cilia lining the insides of our lungs and are too small for the cilia to move out. Wipe these window sills with a wet paper towel so the road dirt doesn't blow around or shake off and throw it right in the trash.
It may be early yet to throw open the windows wide so there is still time to get some pre open window dusting done. The longer dust sits undisturbed the more harmful it is to breathe. Dust mites can colonize quickly when left to do so. The old dust doesn't freak me out quite as much as the build up of road dirt, but if you have breathing issues or allergies, use wet paper towels because you don't want to breathe this old dust. Wipe off the inside sills, the baseboards, heat sources, tops of window and door frames, tops of wall art, ceiling light fixtures and lamp shades. Get behind and under furniture this time of year because when the warmish winds of spring start to blow through our homes, all that dust is going to kick up from behind and under. We'll be breathing it in and indoor house dust contains plenty of bad chemistry, dead bug parts and dried bug poop. We don't want to breathe that stuff.
The great news is, this late winter, early spring air is freshly cleaned by the extreme cold. Even in the heart of the city, this air is considerably more oxygenated than the over breathed air inside our homes. Dust first, then let the fresh air in.
Now let's talk about using the sunshine to our advantage. Sunlight is very cleansing. Now is a great time to take the couch cushions, couch and bed pillows, comforters and blankets outside and shake the dust off. Hang or lay these cushy comforts in the sunshine to stop mold and mildew spores from growing. The cold, dry air is death to dust mites. Squeeze the old air out of the pillows and cushions until you can feel the coldness in them. They'll warm up again when you bring them inside and they'll be refreshed, refreshing you in the process.
Enjoy the free, healing and cleaning power of cold, dry air and sharp sunshine while we have it. It will be hot, humid and hazy soon enough. Well, maybe not soon enough, but soon.
Tuesday, January 14, 2014
winter helpful hints
It is deep midwinter here in Maine and weeks of below freezing temperatures make the air extremely dry. Bundling up in hats, scarves, mittens and lots of layers can add to the burden of dryness our bodies endure during the winter months. Here are a few helpful hints for keeping the indoor air and our bodies moist and healthy.
* Use a squirt of hand or body lotion to soften scratchy sweaters, scarves and mittens. Do not try this with specialty winter gear like goretex etc as it may compromise moisture wicking abilities.
I use the hard to get to, last squirt of lotion when I hand wash knitted items by adding water to the near empty bottle of lotion and shaking well to mix. I have added lotion-water to the rinse cycle of the washing machine as well.
In a dishpan of warm water add just a drop of dish soap or liquid laundry soap and the lotion water and swish to mix. Wash by hand the knitted garments. Rinse with cool water and gently squeeze the water out. Lay the garments on a towel, roll or fold the garment inside. I step on it to squeeze the moisture into the towel. You could wring it without stretching the garments out of shape but I like to use the force of gravity to my advantage when I can. It's dependable. Then lay the damp garment on a drying rack or a dry towel to finish drying.
The first time I used lotion water, I was given a fine wool sweater that had been mistreated by an unknowing laundress. The garment was stiff, scratchy and unwearable. I soaked it in warm water with about 1/2 cup of lotion for several hours, rinsed with warm water and gently dried it using towels. It was soft again. I know fabric softener is the go to chemistry for making clothes soft but I don't buy fabric softener and I hate to waste that last squirt of lotion. Most fabric softeners contain chemistry harmful to us and the environment. Avoid any lotion, potion or cleanser that contains an artificial scent or has fragrance listed in the ingredients as it is bad chemistry.
* Hang wet clothes from the washer on drying racks. This saves money by not running the clothes dryer and humidifier. My drying rack is in the bedroom making the air much more comfortable for sleeping and the clothes dry quickly in the winter dry air. A small fan pointed toward the drying rack will help them dry even quicker and you can direct where you want the moist air to go.
* When the temperature outside rises into the 40's, (hurrah for the January thaw) I suggest taking advantage of the increased air temps and moisture. Open a window and let the moist air in. I open a window a few inches in each bedroom for 5 minutes. Yes, I know I'm letting the heat out but we need fresh air and moisture when we sleep as much as warmth. With the savings from not running the dryer and humidifier all the time, I can spare a little heat in favor of fresh moist air.
* If you use a kettle to heat water for tea, I suggest you do not leave water in the kettle while it sits idle on the stove top. Metal holds water well, but water will eventually have her way and rust is always the result. Water will eventually eat through enameled metal given enough time.
After I've poured boiling water for tea, I douse the kitchen sink with the rest. Boiling water is a great antibacterial and it helps to keep the drains clear. Then I set the kettle back on the stove top with the top off or at least ajar so the last of the moisture can evaporate leaving the kettle dry inside.
Check the inside of your kettle occasionally. I wipe mine out with a dry cloth and check for signs of the enamel coming off and for rust. I can't bear rusty equipment in the kitchen. Metals find their way into our brains and lodge there since the capillaries in our brains are particularly fine.There is much research linking metals with Alzheimer's disease and dementia.
* It's mid January and most of us have taken our Christmas trees down. If you had a real tree I suggest making Evergreen Floor Wash by collecting 4 cups of the dried evergreen needles and twigs and add them to a gallon of boiling water. Let the needles boil for 5 minutes then turn the heat off and steep for an hour. Strain the needles out and let the water cool. Add a teaspoon of dish soap and mix well.
I made a gallon of Evergreen Floor Wash for a friend to give as a gift and I've made it for myself. It is particularly good on hard wood and stone tile floors. All evergreens share the same antibacterial properties and they smell really good, much better than Pine Sol. If you cut the tree yourself or are sure the commercial tree was not sprayed with any pesticides, a healthful tea can be made for yourself. Go to my last blog posting for more on Maintaining your Health with Evergreens.
Here's hoping we all enjoy a healthy, safe and comfortable New Year!!!
* Use a squirt of hand or body lotion to soften scratchy sweaters, scarves and mittens. Do not try this with specialty winter gear like goretex etc as it may compromise moisture wicking abilities.
I use the hard to get to, last squirt of lotion when I hand wash knitted items by adding water to the near empty bottle of lotion and shaking well to mix. I have added lotion-water to the rinse cycle of the washing machine as well.
In a dishpan of warm water add just a drop of dish soap or liquid laundry soap and the lotion water and swish to mix. Wash by hand the knitted garments. Rinse with cool water and gently squeeze the water out. Lay the garments on a towel, roll or fold the garment inside. I step on it to squeeze the moisture into the towel. You could wring it without stretching the garments out of shape but I like to use the force of gravity to my advantage when I can. It's dependable. Then lay the damp garment on a drying rack or a dry towel to finish drying.
The first time I used lotion water, I was given a fine wool sweater that had been mistreated by an unknowing laundress. The garment was stiff, scratchy and unwearable. I soaked it in warm water with about 1/2 cup of lotion for several hours, rinsed with warm water and gently dried it using towels. It was soft again. I know fabric softener is the go to chemistry for making clothes soft but I don't buy fabric softener and I hate to waste that last squirt of lotion. Most fabric softeners contain chemistry harmful to us and the environment. Avoid any lotion, potion or cleanser that contains an artificial scent or has fragrance listed in the ingredients as it is bad chemistry.
* Hang wet clothes from the washer on drying racks. This saves money by not running the clothes dryer and humidifier. My drying rack is in the bedroom making the air much more comfortable for sleeping and the clothes dry quickly in the winter dry air. A small fan pointed toward the drying rack will help them dry even quicker and you can direct where you want the moist air to go.
* When the temperature outside rises into the 40's, (hurrah for the January thaw) I suggest taking advantage of the increased air temps and moisture. Open a window and let the moist air in. I open a window a few inches in each bedroom for 5 minutes. Yes, I know I'm letting the heat out but we need fresh air and moisture when we sleep as much as warmth. With the savings from not running the dryer and humidifier all the time, I can spare a little heat in favor of fresh moist air.
* If you use a kettle to heat water for tea, I suggest you do not leave water in the kettle while it sits idle on the stove top. Metal holds water well, but water will eventually have her way and rust is always the result. Water will eventually eat through enameled metal given enough time.
After I've poured boiling water for tea, I douse the kitchen sink with the rest. Boiling water is a great antibacterial and it helps to keep the drains clear. Then I set the kettle back on the stove top with the top off or at least ajar so the last of the moisture can evaporate leaving the kettle dry inside.
Check the inside of your kettle occasionally. I wipe mine out with a dry cloth and check for signs of the enamel coming off and for rust. I can't bear rusty equipment in the kitchen. Metals find their way into our brains and lodge there since the capillaries in our brains are particularly fine.There is much research linking metals with Alzheimer's disease and dementia.
* It's mid January and most of us have taken our Christmas trees down. If you had a real tree I suggest making Evergreen Floor Wash by collecting 4 cups of the dried evergreen needles and twigs and add them to a gallon of boiling water. Let the needles boil for 5 minutes then turn the heat off and steep for an hour. Strain the needles out and let the water cool. Add a teaspoon of dish soap and mix well.
I made a gallon of Evergreen Floor Wash for a friend to give as a gift and I've made it for myself. It is particularly good on hard wood and stone tile floors. All evergreens share the same antibacterial properties and they smell really good, much better than Pine Sol. If you cut the tree yourself or are sure the commercial tree was not sprayed with any pesticides, a healthful tea can be made for yourself. Go to my last blog posting for more on Maintaining your Health with Evergreens.
Here's hoping we all enjoy a healthy, safe and comfortable New Year!!!
Monday, December 9, 2013
Maintain your Health with Evergreens
Here in Auburn, Maine, it is snowing on frozen ground and the next week will feature frigid temperatures. Winter is here and the evergreens will reign supreme for the next 5 months.
I am blessed with several Fir trees; a Balsam Fir among them, and a Spruce tree in my back yard. I have cut them for decorative boughs every year I've worked this property as an urban farm but this is the first year I've made herbal tea from them. I'm extremely cautious as I explore nontoxic, sustainable ways to maintain our homes and ourselves and do not share information in my blog or my class unless I've verified information and ideas from two trusted sources. I first learned about the healthful benefits of evergreens from a trusted local herbalist, Jane Kuntz and then read about healing with evergreens in an article written by herbalist Barbara MacPherson in the Winter 2013 edition of Herb Quarterly; so last night I made a tea of Balsam Fir.
One word of caution, pregnant women and those with kidney disease should not drink evergreen teas nor eat the needles at all and moderation is suggested in general for using evergreen preparations as they can irritate the kidneys in high concentrations. Using evergreen teas to wash your floors or in potpourri is not dangerous in any way.
I added 2 tablespoons of fresh Balsam Fir needles and a couple twigs to 4 cups of boiling water in a metal bowl. I leaned my face over the bowl with a towel over my head and inhaled the fragrant steam. My sinuses were soothed and the moist warmth felt great on my face. (I'll be doing this often during the dry winter months.) After about 10 minutes, I dipped my teacup into the tea and drank it. It was awesome. Then, I put one drop of dish soap in the remaining tea, mixed it in well and used it to wash my kitchen and bathroom floors.
Balsam Fir makes a particularly healthful tea and is a traditional favorite among herbalists, having antibacterial (meaning kills bacteria on nonliving surfaces) and antiseptic (meaning stops sepsis or infection on living tissue) properties and is helpful in curing urinary tract infections and respiratory problems, not to mention the wonderful scent.
All evergreen trees share similar healthful chemistry; the needles, sap and inner bark are high in Vitamin C, work well when combating antibiotic-resistant bacteria and the sap is a handy antiseptic, useful indeed when out in the woods and you cut or bruise yourself. The trees themselves gently dose the forest with antibiotic, antifungal and antiviral oils called phytoncides. They are released into the air, having a calming effect on our breathing and reducing our stress. What a beautiful gift.
These recipes are from the Herb Quarterly article I mentioned above.
Evergreen Needle Tea
(infusion)
1 tsp evergreen needles
2 cups water
Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes
Evergreen Bark Decoction
(a bit stronger than the infusion)
1/2 cup chopped bark
1 pint water
Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes, then cool for several hours. Strain and drink.
Evergreen Needle and Bark Decoction
1/2 cup chopped bark
1/2 cup fresh needles
1 quart water
Bring to boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain, cool and drink.
Evergreen Salve
1 cup dried chopped bark
1 cup dried needles
1 quart olive oil
chop the bark when it's fresh. Dry the bark and the needles. Place in a jar with the olive oil and let sit for about two weeks in a sunny place. When ready, strain through cheesecloth and discard the solids. Add an ounce of beeswax for every 5 ounces of oil. Heat the oil and wax together in the top of a double boiler until well mixed. Pour into jars and seal. (To make an even more effective salve, add a tablespoon of the sap when you heat the oil and wax together.)
If you don't have evergreens in your yard and are cautious about using evergreens from the neighborhood or local woods to make a drinking tea because your aren't sure if they have been sprayed with pesticides etc, or you're just not sure you want to drink evergreen tea, do try it as a nontoxic antibacterial cleaning solution. It will certainly not do your floors any harm and those phytoncides can only help make the long cold winter easier to bear. Be well, my darlings and enjoy the winter holidays!
I am blessed with several Fir trees; a Balsam Fir among them, and a Spruce tree in my back yard. I have cut them for decorative boughs every year I've worked this property as an urban farm but this is the first year I've made herbal tea from them. I'm extremely cautious as I explore nontoxic, sustainable ways to maintain our homes and ourselves and do not share information in my blog or my class unless I've verified information and ideas from two trusted sources. I first learned about the healthful benefits of evergreens from a trusted local herbalist, Jane Kuntz and then read about healing with evergreens in an article written by herbalist Barbara MacPherson in the Winter 2013 edition of Herb Quarterly; so last night I made a tea of Balsam Fir.
One word of caution, pregnant women and those with kidney disease should not drink evergreen teas nor eat the needles at all and moderation is suggested in general for using evergreen preparations as they can irritate the kidneys in high concentrations. Using evergreen teas to wash your floors or in potpourri is not dangerous in any way.
I added 2 tablespoons of fresh Balsam Fir needles and a couple twigs to 4 cups of boiling water in a metal bowl. I leaned my face over the bowl with a towel over my head and inhaled the fragrant steam. My sinuses were soothed and the moist warmth felt great on my face. (I'll be doing this often during the dry winter months.) After about 10 minutes, I dipped my teacup into the tea and drank it. It was awesome. Then, I put one drop of dish soap in the remaining tea, mixed it in well and used it to wash my kitchen and bathroom floors.
Balsam Fir makes a particularly healthful tea and is a traditional favorite among herbalists, having antibacterial (meaning kills bacteria on nonliving surfaces) and antiseptic (meaning stops sepsis or infection on living tissue) properties and is helpful in curing urinary tract infections and respiratory problems, not to mention the wonderful scent.
All evergreen trees share similar healthful chemistry; the needles, sap and inner bark are high in Vitamin C, work well when combating antibiotic-resistant bacteria and the sap is a handy antiseptic, useful indeed when out in the woods and you cut or bruise yourself. The trees themselves gently dose the forest with antibiotic, antifungal and antiviral oils called phytoncides. They are released into the air, having a calming effect on our breathing and reducing our stress. What a beautiful gift.
These recipes are from the Herb Quarterly article I mentioned above.
Evergreen Needle Tea
(infusion)
1 tsp evergreen needles
2 cups water
Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes
Evergreen Bark Decoction
(a bit stronger than the infusion)
1/2 cup chopped bark
1 pint water
Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes, then cool for several hours. Strain and drink.
Evergreen Needle and Bark Decoction
1/2 cup chopped bark
1/2 cup fresh needles
1 quart water
Bring to boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain, cool and drink.
Evergreen Salve
1 cup dried chopped bark
1 cup dried needles
1 quart olive oil
chop the bark when it's fresh. Dry the bark and the needles. Place in a jar with the olive oil and let sit for about two weeks in a sunny place. When ready, strain through cheesecloth and discard the solids. Add an ounce of beeswax for every 5 ounces of oil. Heat the oil and wax together in the top of a double boiler until well mixed. Pour into jars and seal. (To make an even more effective salve, add a tablespoon of the sap when you heat the oil and wax together.)
If you don't have evergreens in your yard and are cautious about using evergreens from the neighborhood or local woods to make a drinking tea because your aren't sure if they have been sprayed with pesticides etc, or you're just not sure you want to drink evergreen tea, do try it as a nontoxic antibacterial cleaning solution. It will certainly not do your floors any harm and those phytoncides can only help make the long cold winter easier to bear. Be well, my darlings and enjoy the winter holidays!
Thursday, October 24, 2013
Recipies for DIY Household Cleaners and Personal Products
Basic Ingredients to Make Your Own Household Cleaners
These * have antibacterial properties
Laundry Powder / Washing Soda (same thing) Borax
White Vinegar * Apple Cider Vinegar * Lemon Juice *
Baking Soda * Rubbing Alcohol * Boiling Water *
Hydrogen Peroxide * Table Salt Cola / Club Soda
Castile Soap Essential Oils, Cinnamon or Vanilla flavoring
Important
If you choose to use bleach and ammonia based cleaners, never use either as a mixer with anything but water. Never use a bleach based cleaner in a toilet with urine in the bowl or to clean pet stains or the cat box. Urine contains ammonia. Bleach + Ammonia (or vinegar) = deadly gas.
Do not buy bleach or ammonia based cleaners in poor quality spray bottles. They leak; when the temperature rises the fluid is forced up the tube and out the nozzle and down the outside of the bottle. If you have these two chemicals in the same location and they both leak, they will create a poison gas.
Under the sink is not a good place to store cleaning products. The alternating hot water down the drain and later cooling creates the perfect place for poor quality spray bottles to leak. This range of temperature also creates condensation which softens cardboard (such as boxes of laundry power or baking soda) and encourages mold.
Recipes for Homemade Household Cleaners
I have indicated the sources for most of these recipes. If there is no credit listed, I have used the recipe myself for so long I don't remember where I learned it.
Disinfectant Soak for Toys
2 quarts of warm tap water per 1/2 cup baking soda. Add 1/2 cup vinegar to deodorize. Make sure the baking soda is well dissolved and mixed completely in the water.
Powdered Laundry Soap (from SimpleDollar.com , an excellent site for all aspects of maintaining your home. I've used this recipe for many years)
1 bar of soap grated finely. Add 1 cup washing soda, 1/2 cup borax, 1/2 cup oxygen based cleaner such as OxiClean (some people add 1/2 cup baking soda instead of OxiClean or in addition to). Mix thoroughly in a ziplock bag and use a tablespoon to measure laundry soap into the washer with the water running but before you add the clothes. Two tablespoons will wash a normal load.
Homemade Glass Cleaner (recipe from About.com/housekeeping )
1 cup rubbing alcohol
1 cup water
1 tablespoon of vinegar
Mix well in a squirt bottle.
Magnificent Mold Remover (from The Complete Guide to Eco-Friendly House Cleaning by Anne B. Kocsis. An excellent resource with many recipes and is available at the local library)
Mix 1 cup of Hydrogen Peroxide with 2 cups of warm water in a spray bottle and spray directly on moldy areas. Let sit for one hour and use scrub brush to remove mold. Or, create paste out of 2 cups of baking soda and 1 cup vinegar. Mix the paste well and scrub onto moldy surfaces. This may be repeated if necessary.
Kitchen Sink Sanitizer
Pour boiling water from the tea kettle onto the sides and bottom of the sink and on your dish cloth or sponge, let them cool slightly and add a small amount of dish soap to your dish cloth or sponge. Work the dish soap through the cloth or sponge and wipe the sink. Rinse with warm tap water and wipe dry. Rinse the cloth or sponge again and wring it out with all your might. Leave the dish cloth or sponge as dry as possible. Hang the cloth or lean the sponge against the faucet so that air will circulate around it to dry it completely. Mold and bacteria need wetness, don't give them any.
Recipes for Homemade Personal Products
(from Planet Home by Alexandra Zissu and Jeffery Hollender, an excellent resource available at the local library)
Deodorant (stops odor safely by reducing the number of naturally occurring underarm bacteria)
Add 1 part baking soda and 6 parts cornstarch in a resealable container and shake well. Use cotton ball or cosmetic pad to dab a small amount of powder onto clean armpits. Baking soda has antibacterial properties and is a natural deodorant.
Toothpaste
Combine 2 parts baking soda with 1 part fine table salt in a resealable container and shake well. Dip tips of damp toothbrush into powder, brush and rinse well.
Shampoo (there is much information on the internet about going no 'poo)
Combine 1/2 cup baking soda with 3 cups warm water in a squirt bottle. Rub a small amount into hair and rinse. For 1 time use, rub 1/8 cup baking soda into hair and rinse.
Conditioner
After shampooing, rinse hair with a mix of 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar and 1 cup warm water. Add a drop of essential oil or vanilla flavoring for scent.
Deep Conditioner
In a bowl, mash 1 peeled and pitted avocado and 2 tablespoons honey. Massage into hair and leave 20 to 30 minutes. Then wash hair as usual.
Keep in mind that our bodies have adapted to repeated doses of shampoo, conditioner, etc. It may take some time for our scalps to stop over producing oils used to combat the effects of the hair products we've been using. You may find your hair to be oilier than usual when you switch to homemade. That's O.K. Actually, it's more than O.K., it's very good.
We've been taught to believe that hair oil is dirty. There is nothing better for luxurious hair that evenly dispersed natural hair oil. Try less washing and more brushing, ideally with a soft, natural bristle brush. Do not change how you look, change how you see.
Do not be deceived by advertising. The luxurious hair shown in the commercials doesn't exist. It is not a result of the product they are going to great extremes to get you to buy. It is the result of camera tricks, lighting, rehearsing, multiple camera shots and products only known to the camera crew, director, the hair model, her stylists and the special effects artists; but of course, you know that.
These * have antibacterial properties
Laundry Powder / Washing Soda (same thing) Borax
White Vinegar * Apple Cider Vinegar * Lemon Juice *
Baking Soda * Rubbing Alcohol * Boiling Water *
Hydrogen Peroxide * Table Salt Cola / Club Soda
Castile Soap Essential Oils, Cinnamon or Vanilla flavoring
Important
If you choose to use bleach and ammonia based cleaners, never use either as a mixer with anything but water. Never use a bleach based cleaner in a toilet with urine in the bowl or to clean pet stains or the cat box. Urine contains ammonia. Bleach + Ammonia (or vinegar) = deadly gas.
Do not buy bleach or ammonia based cleaners in poor quality spray bottles. They leak; when the temperature rises the fluid is forced up the tube and out the nozzle and down the outside of the bottle. If you have these two chemicals in the same location and they both leak, they will create a poison gas.
Under the sink is not a good place to store cleaning products. The alternating hot water down the drain and later cooling creates the perfect place for poor quality spray bottles to leak. This range of temperature also creates condensation which softens cardboard (such as boxes of laundry power or baking soda) and encourages mold.
Recipes for Homemade Household Cleaners
I have indicated the sources for most of these recipes. If there is no credit listed, I have used the recipe myself for so long I don't remember where I learned it.
Disinfectant Soak for Toys
2 quarts of warm tap water per 1/2 cup baking soda. Add 1/2 cup vinegar to deodorize. Make sure the baking soda is well dissolved and mixed completely in the water.
Powdered Laundry Soap (from SimpleDollar.com , an excellent site for all aspects of maintaining your home. I've used this recipe for many years)
1 bar of soap grated finely. Add 1 cup washing soda, 1/2 cup borax, 1/2 cup oxygen based cleaner such as OxiClean (some people add 1/2 cup baking soda instead of OxiClean or in addition to). Mix thoroughly in a ziplock bag and use a tablespoon to measure laundry soap into the washer with the water running but before you add the clothes. Two tablespoons will wash a normal load.
Homemade Glass Cleaner (recipe from About.com/housekeeping )
1 cup rubbing alcohol
1 cup water
1 tablespoon of vinegar
Mix well in a squirt bottle.
Magnificent Mold Remover (from The Complete Guide to Eco-Friendly House Cleaning by Anne B. Kocsis. An excellent resource with many recipes and is available at the local library)
Mix 1 cup of Hydrogen Peroxide with 2 cups of warm water in a spray bottle and spray directly on moldy areas. Let sit for one hour and use scrub brush to remove mold. Or, create paste out of 2 cups of baking soda and 1 cup vinegar. Mix the paste well and scrub onto moldy surfaces. This may be repeated if necessary.
Kitchen Sink Sanitizer
Pour boiling water from the tea kettle onto the sides and bottom of the sink and on your dish cloth or sponge, let them cool slightly and add a small amount of dish soap to your dish cloth or sponge. Work the dish soap through the cloth or sponge and wipe the sink. Rinse with warm tap water and wipe dry. Rinse the cloth or sponge again and wring it out with all your might. Leave the dish cloth or sponge as dry as possible. Hang the cloth or lean the sponge against the faucet so that air will circulate around it to dry it completely. Mold and bacteria need wetness, don't give them any.
Recipes for Homemade Personal Products
(from Planet Home by Alexandra Zissu and Jeffery Hollender, an excellent resource available at the local library)
Deodorant (stops odor safely by reducing the number of naturally occurring underarm bacteria)
Add 1 part baking soda and 6 parts cornstarch in a resealable container and shake well. Use cotton ball or cosmetic pad to dab a small amount of powder onto clean armpits. Baking soda has antibacterial properties and is a natural deodorant.
Toothpaste
Combine 2 parts baking soda with 1 part fine table salt in a resealable container and shake well. Dip tips of damp toothbrush into powder, brush and rinse well.
Shampoo (there is much information on the internet about going no 'poo)
Combine 1/2 cup baking soda with 3 cups warm water in a squirt bottle. Rub a small amount into hair and rinse. For 1 time use, rub 1/8 cup baking soda into hair and rinse.
Conditioner
After shampooing, rinse hair with a mix of 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar and 1 cup warm water. Add a drop of essential oil or vanilla flavoring for scent.
Deep Conditioner
In a bowl, mash 1 peeled and pitted avocado and 2 tablespoons honey. Massage into hair and leave 20 to 30 minutes. Then wash hair as usual.
Keep in mind that our bodies have adapted to repeated doses of shampoo, conditioner, etc. It may take some time for our scalps to stop over producing oils used to combat the effects of the hair products we've been using. You may find your hair to be oilier than usual when you switch to homemade. That's O.K. Actually, it's more than O.K., it's very good.
We've been taught to believe that hair oil is dirty. There is nothing better for luxurious hair that evenly dispersed natural hair oil. Try less washing and more brushing, ideally with a soft, natural bristle brush. Do not change how you look, change how you see.
Do not be deceived by advertising. The luxurious hair shown in the commercials doesn't exist. It is not a result of the product they are going to great extremes to get you to buy. It is the result of camera tricks, lighting, rehearsing, multiple camera shots and products only known to the camera crew, director, the hair model, her stylists and the special effects artists; but of course, you know that.
Thursday, October 17, 2013
The Anti-bacterial Kitchen
A well tended kitchen goes a long way toward providing a happy and healthy quality of life for ourselves and our families. I have basic information and some suggestions to share with you on how to keep your kitchen safe and healthy.
The foe we most often do battle with in the kitchen is bacteria. To win this battle it helps to know your enemy.
Bacteria is a multi-system organism, not unlike ourselves. They consume and digest, poop and off gas, bear young to whom they pass DNA changes which helps them to survive environmental changes and they die leaving a dead carcases behind which is food for other bacteria. Bacteria do not have suckers, claws or pointy feet to grip with nor do they fly or jump. They spread easily by contact such as going from a hand to a doorknob to another hand or by being smeared along a counter with a bacteria laden sponge. They need water to thrive and are moved around easily by water. If bacteria are allowed to thrive, they colonize quickly and are then able to work together to protect their group. They create a slick, protective film over themselves. You've probably felt a slick spot at some time, maybe behind the faucet or under the veggie bin in the fridge as you are wiping along. This protective barrier can take the brunt of the cleaner and the swipe you take at them and leave a few of the bacteria behind unharmed. They will have experienced a glancing blow of the cleaner you've used and can pass on a DNA change to offspring which strengthens them against the same chemistry next time they are exposed to it.
The keys to defeating bacteria are;
* do not let them colonize by thoroughly cleaning often and
* keep their numbers down by depriving them of the one thing they must have, water.
It is recommended that we not wash raw meat before cooking because under a quickly running faucet, the water splashes all round, on your clothes, arms, the counter, the sink and the clean dishes in the drainer by the sink. What bacteria there was on the raw chicken, for instance, is now likely to be everywhere the water splashed and they are now all wet and ready to be spread further with every touch and drip. Kill bacteria on meat by cooking it thoroughly.
Knowing that bacteria are so easily moved, we can use this knowledge to our advantage. Removing the bacteria is required for the usual maintenance cleaning like wiping the counter during the day. Killing the bacteria is for deeper cleaning events like at night when the kitchen is cleaned one last time for the day or if you feel something is really bacteria laden, like a meat cutting board for instance. To keep your kitchen sink and counters bacteria free does not require fierce chemistry; it requires thoroughly wiping and rinsing the surfaces and rinsing the cleaning cloth or sponge, most importantly, leaving them as dry as possible after every use. Always wring out any cleaning cloth or sponge with all your might, any water left behind on counters, sinks and in the cloths and sponges will provide a place for bacteria to thrive. Washing your hands, cutting boards and wiping counter tops with a clean dish cloth or sponge with only mildly soapy water are key to keeping bacteria under control. When you pull out the antibacterial cleaners, make sure you rinse well. Do not leave any dead bacteria carcasses or any lingerers if the surface has been colonized and is slick feeling. Try to use the least intense antibacterial cleaners you can since you do not want to breed a more powerful strain.
Knowing that bacteria needs water to survive, keep your kitchen sink, sponge and dish cloths as dry as possible. Use clean dish towels often and hang till dry the used ones destined for the laundry basket. To keep your kitchen sponge and dish cloths bacteria-free, I suggest you daily pour boiling water on them or put them wet in your microwave for two minutes. Then, let them cool to the touch and wring them out. Each evening when I clean the kitchen one last time for the day, I put the kettle on for tea, filling the kettle full. I fill my teacup, then I pour the rest of the boiling water over the kitchen sponge and douse the entire kitchen sink with it. Boiling water is a great non-toxic antibacterial. After is has cooled slightly, I wipe it dry with my sponge. Then, I squeeze the cooled sponge with all my might, leaning the sponge against the faucet instead of laying it down, so that air can circulate around it and dry it further. If you use a dish cloth; sanitize, wring it as dry as possible then hang it so that the air can circulate around it so it will dry.
Bacteria growth is dramatically slowed down when chilled in the fridge. Let leftovers cool before refrigerating so that the fridge isn't overtaxed having to cool hot food, but do not let food set out for over two hours, whether on a picnic table or on the stove as leftovers. Packaging leftovers in an air tight container helps the food retain it's moisture and flavor but it is the coldness that keeps bacteria from spoiling the food. I recommend that fresh fruits and vegetables be soaked for 5 or 10 minutes in a dishpan of cool water with a splash of vinegar added to stop bacteria growth. I soak our fresh produce in about 1/2 cup of vinegar to 3/4 gallon of water. I have used a tablespoon of salt and the juice of half a lemon to a gallon of water to soak produce in, also. Both solutions effectively eliminate bacteria from the produce when followed by a quick rinse and thorough drying. This will keep your fruits and vegetables from succumbing to bacteria and going bad for much longer than if unwashed and even longer if you refrigerate them after washing. For more information on refrigerator safety go to my post from January 18th, 2013. Refrigerator Rules
Thanks for reading.
The foe we most often do battle with in the kitchen is bacteria. To win this battle it helps to know your enemy.
Bacteria is a multi-system organism, not unlike ourselves. They consume and digest, poop and off gas, bear young to whom they pass DNA changes which helps them to survive environmental changes and they die leaving a dead carcases behind which is food for other bacteria. Bacteria do not have suckers, claws or pointy feet to grip with nor do they fly or jump. They spread easily by contact such as going from a hand to a doorknob to another hand or by being smeared along a counter with a bacteria laden sponge. They need water to thrive and are moved around easily by water. If bacteria are allowed to thrive, they colonize quickly and are then able to work together to protect their group. They create a slick, protective film over themselves. You've probably felt a slick spot at some time, maybe behind the faucet or under the veggie bin in the fridge as you are wiping along. This protective barrier can take the brunt of the cleaner and the swipe you take at them and leave a few of the bacteria behind unharmed. They will have experienced a glancing blow of the cleaner you've used and can pass on a DNA change to offspring which strengthens them against the same chemistry next time they are exposed to it.
The keys to defeating bacteria are;
* do not let them colonize by thoroughly cleaning often and
* keep their numbers down by depriving them of the one thing they must have, water.
It is recommended that we not wash raw meat before cooking because under a quickly running faucet, the water splashes all round, on your clothes, arms, the counter, the sink and the clean dishes in the drainer by the sink. What bacteria there was on the raw chicken, for instance, is now likely to be everywhere the water splashed and they are now all wet and ready to be spread further with every touch and drip. Kill bacteria on meat by cooking it thoroughly.
Knowing that bacteria are so easily moved, we can use this knowledge to our advantage. Removing the bacteria is required for the usual maintenance cleaning like wiping the counter during the day. Killing the bacteria is for deeper cleaning events like at night when the kitchen is cleaned one last time for the day or if you feel something is really bacteria laden, like a meat cutting board for instance. To keep your kitchen sink and counters bacteria free does not require fierce chemistry; it requires thoroughly wiping and rinsing the surfaces and rinsing the cleaning cloth or sponge, most importantly, leaving them as dry as possible after every use. Always wring out any cleaning cloth or sponge with all your might, any water left behind on counters, sinks and in the cloths and sponges will provide a place for bacteria to thrive. Washing your hands, cutting boards and wiping counter tops with a clean dish cloth or sponge with only mildly soapy water are key to keeping bacteria under control. When you pull out the antibacterial cleaners, make sure you rinse well. Do not leave any dead bacteria carcasses or any lingerers if the surface has been colonized and is slick feeling. Try to use the least intense antibacterial cleaners you can since you do not want to breed a more powerful strain.
Knowing that bacteria needs water to survive, keep your kitchen sink, sponge and dish cloths as dry as possible. Use clean dish towels often and hang till dry the used ones destined for the laundry basket. To keep your kitchen sponge and dish cloths bacteria-free, I suggest you daily pour boiling water on them or put them wet in your microwave for two minutes. Then, let them cool to the touch and wring them out. Each evening when I clean the kitchen one last time for the day, I put the kettle on for tea, filling the kettle full. I fill my teacup, then I pour the rest of the boiling water over the kitchen sponge and douse the entire kitchen sink with it. Boiling water is a great non-toxic antibacterial. After is has cooled slightly, I wipe it dry with my sponge. Then, I squeeze the cooled sponge with all my might, leaning the sponge against the faucet instead of laying it down, so that air can circulate around it and dry it further. If you use a dish cloth; sanitize, wring it as dry as possible then hang it so that the air can circulate around it so it will dry.
Bacteria growth is dramatically slowed down when chilled in the fridge. Let leftovers cool before refrigerating so that the fridge isn't overtaxed having to cool hot food, but do not let food set out for over two hours, whether on a picnic table or on the stove as leftovers. Packaging leftovers in an air tight container helps the food retain it's moisture and flavor but it is the coldness that keeps bacteria from spoiling the food. I recommend that fresh fruits and vegetables be soaked for 5 or 10 minutes in a dishpan of cool water with a splash of vinegar added to stop bacteria growth. I soak our fresh produce in about 1/2 cup of vinegar to 3/4 gallon of water. I have used a tablespoon of salt and the juice of half a lemon to a gallon of water to soak produce in, also. Both solutions effectively eliminate bacteria from the produce when followed by a quick rinse and thorough drying. This will keep your fruits and vegetables from succumbing to bacteria and going bad for much longer than if unwashed and even longer if you refrigerate them after washing. For more information on refrigerator safety go to my post from January 18th, 2013. Refrigerator Rules
Thanks for reading.
Friday, October 4, 2013
Price Comparison - Great Falls Buying Club and Hannaford
The following description of the Great Falls Buying Club is from an article in the Friday, August 23, 2013 issue of the Lewiston Sun Journal.
"The Great Falls Buying Club purchases Maine-sourced and sometimes hard-to-get food and household products in bulk quantities and generally for lower-than-retail prices. The club is made up of individuals and families who like to purchase good quality local food at reasonable prices and work together with their neighbors and friends to do so.
The club is sponsored by St. Mary’s Nutrition Center in Lewiston. Activities are made possible by generous funding from the AARP Foundation and support from the Western Mountains Alliance.
For more information about the Great Falls Buying Club, contact Sherie at 207-513-3848 or greatfallsbuyingclub@gmail.com "
I have compared the prices of a few of the items available through the Great Falls Buying Club and the Auburn Hannaford. As with all shopping, these prices are subject to change and the products are subject to availability. This information is intended to illustrate the general price comparisons between these two food buying opportunities. Certified Organic produce is indicated with *, products of uncertain of origin are indicated with #.
Great Falls Buying Club - Hannaford
Kountry Kettle Strawberry Preserves $3.81/16oz - Bonne Maman Strawberry Preserves $3.99/13oz
Ployes Bouchard Buckwheat Acadian Lite Flour $1.73/lb - Same Brand $1.86/lb
Maine Grains Rolled Oats $1.69/lb - Quaker Oats Old Fashioned Oats $1.90/lb
Clover Hill Honey glass jar $7.84/lb - Hannaford plastic bottle # $3.80/lb Sue Bee # $3.28/lb
Red Beets * $1.68/lb - Red Beets * from California $2.75/lb
Green Cabbage $1.20/lb - Green Cabbage from Canada 69cents/lb
Red Cabbage $1.50/lb - Red Cabbage from Canada 89cents/lb
Carrots * $1.68/lb - Carrots * Natures Place Brand # $1.50/lb
Broccoli $2.20/lb - Broccoli # $1.50/lb Broccoli Crowns # $2.49/lb
Cauliflower 2.60/lb - Cauliflower from California $1.33/lb
Eggplant * 2.64/lb - Conventional Eggplant # $1.99/lb
Baby Spinach * $10.00/lb - Olivia's Baby Spinach * $7.26/lb Natures Place Brand *# $12.13/lb
Mixed Salad Greens * $10.00/lb - Olivia's Spring Salad Mix * $7.26/lb Hanna Brand * # $9.57/lb
Parsley * $1.79/bunch - Parsley * # $1.79/bunch
Cilantro * $1.79/bunch - Cilantro * # $1.79 bunch
Red Onions $1.78/lb - Red Onions # in 2lb bag $3.00 Red Onions loose # $1.99/lb
Sweet Onions * $1.78/lb - Sweet Onions conventional # $3.49/3lb bag ($1.10/lb)
Red Orange Yellow Peppers $2.50/lb - Red Orange Yellow Peppers from Mexico or Canada
$3.49/lb for Red $3.99/lb for Orange and Yellow
"The Great Falls Buying Club purchases Maine-sourced and sometimes hard-to-get food and household products in bulk quantities and generally for lower-than-retail prices. The club is made up of individuals and families who like to purchase good quality local food at reasonable prices and work together with their neighbors and friends to do so.
The club is sponsored by St. Mary’s Nutrition Center in Lewiston. Activities are made possible by generous funding from the AARP Foundation and support from the Western Mountains Alliance.
For more information about the Great Falls Buying Club, contact Sherie at 207-513-3848 or greatfallsbuyingclub@gmail.com "
I have compared the prices of a few of the items available through the Great Falls Buying Club and the Auburn Hannaford. As with all shopping, these prices are subject to change and the products are subject to availability. This information is intended to illustrate the general price comparisons between these two food buying opportunities. Certified Organic produce is indicated with *, products of uncertain of origin are indicated with #.
Great Falls Buying Club - Hannaford
Kountry Kettle Strawberry Preserves $3.81/16oz - Bonne Maman Strawberry Preserves $3.99/13oz
Ployes Bouchard Buckwheat Acadian Lite Flour $1.73/lb - Same Brand $1.86/lb
Maine Grains Rolled Oats $1.69/lb - Quaker Oats Old Fashioned Oats $1.90/lb
Clover Hill Honey glass jar $7.84/lb - Hannaford plastic bottle # $3.80/lb Sue Bee # $3.28/lb
Red Beets * $1.68/lb - Red Beets * from California $2.75/lb
Green Cabbage $1.20/lb - Green Cabbage from Canada 69cents/lb
Red Cabbage $1.50/lb - Red Cabbage from Canada 89cents/lb
Carrots * $1.68/lb - Carrots * Natures Place Brand # $1.50/lb
Broccoli $2.20/lb - Broccoli # $1.50/lb Broccoli Crowns # $2.49/lb
Cauliflower 2.60/lb - Cauliflower from California $1.33/lb
Eggplant * 2.64/lb - Conventional Eggplant # $1.99/lb
Baby Spinach * $10.00/lb - Olivia's Baby Spinach * $7.26/lb Natures Place Brand *# $12.13/lb
Mixed Salad Greens * $10.00/lb - Olivia's Spring Salad Mix * $7.26/lb Hanna Brand * # $9.57/lb
Parsley * $1.79/bunch - Parsley * # $1.79/bunch
Cilantro * $1.79/bunch - Cilantro * # $1.79 bunch
Red Onions $1.78/lb - Red Onions # in 2lb bag $3.00 Red Onions loose # $1.99/lb
Sweet Onions * $1.78/lb - Sweet Onions conventional # $3.49/3lb bag ($1.10/lb)
Red Orange Yellow Peppers $2.50/lb - Red Orange Yellow Peppers from Mexico or Canada
$3.49/lb for Red $3.99/lb for Orange and Yellow
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