Summer Reading 1980's

To continue sharing tidbits from my summer reading, I present the 1980's, these helpful hints come from 

Betty-Anne's Helpful Household Hints  Volume 2
written by Betty-Anne Hastings with Mary-Beth Connors
Copyright 1982  Ventura Books, Inc

"Chapter 6   STAINS

    We don't need to tell you about the rising cost of dry-cleaning today.  Inflation has hit everywhere, but one of the easiest areas to spot the rise is in cleaning where prices have quadrupled.  Of course, one of the things that bothered us the most about this, is that many spot stains could be gotten out at home.  
    Many kitchen and laundry-items will effectively clean spots.  Dr. Bronner's Castile Soap, vinegar, petroleum jelly, chlorine bleach and ammonia will all get out a wide variety of stains.  Old tooth-brushes and a regular stiff brush are indispensable.
    Home cleaning can be advantageous, but it can also be dangerous.  Some cleaning agents are irritants, some are poisonous, and still others are flammable.  Understand what you're dealing with, and as a general rule, forego using any dangerous ones.  Be especially wary of alkalines.  Not only are they dangerous, but they will seriously harm wools, silks, and furs, while not really bothering cotton, unless used a full strength.  
    Whereas alkalines should never be used on animal fibers, all acids are harmful to plant fibers.  It's best to avoid their use entirely, leaving their handling to professionals.
    It's better to work a spot two or three times sparingly, rather than to scrub it vigorously only once.  'Water down' your cleaning agents, and apply them several times.  Your fabrics will react better and will look better afterward.  A single, full strength application and hard scrub may ruin the cloth, or, though it may lift the stain, may cause a permanent reminder of your cleaning that looks worse than the stain did.

Did you think stains on leather or suede are permanent?  Well, guess again!  Ordinary club soda is the best cleaning agent.  Just use the soda and an old toothbrush, rubbing the stain back and forth.  A suede brush should be used on the suede after to spot dries to return the flattened nap to its previous condition.

Alcohol stains set quickly, so it's necessary to act quickly when spills occur.  You'll also find that they turn a yellowish-brown color as they age, which can ruin almost any garment.  Soak the stained fabric in a mild solution of water and glycerine.  The glycerine will soften the stain and make it easier to lift.  If you scrub the spot(s), do so very gently and do not use a brush.  Rinse in a heavier solution of clean vinegar and cold water.  

Perhaps the most difficult stain to remove is from perspiration.  I'm sure you've had some of your favorite white or colored clothing ruined by these yellow stains just as we have.  Although there is no sure-fire method for getting the stains out, we think we've come up with a winner.  Before laundering, try a thirty minute pre-soak in luke-warm water heavily laced with white vinegar.  You can "work" the stains with your hands, but don't scrub.  After soaking, launder as you normally would.

This one will get rid of dirt that leaves behind those 'ring-around-the-collar' stains.  We all know simple scrubbing won't take out those rings, but a neighbor of ours suggested this.  Take a stick of white chalk, the kind used on school blackboards, and coat the inside of the collar where the rings are.  The chalk does a very easy trick: absorbs the body oil from the ring.  A hardy scrubbing with a solution of shampoo (which is also designed to cut body oils) and warm water should alleviate the rings.

Lemon juice will take out rust stains.  Use a sponge, apply a solution of lemon juice and sea salt.  Rinse immediately afterwards with cold water and launder the garment as soon as possible.  

Mildew stains are no problem!  If the cloth will stand up to it, a mild solution of ammonia and warm water used as a soak should be just what the doctor ordered!

Ever tried to get lipstick stains out?  Well, so have we, and we've been just as frustrated as you.  One local dry-cleaner suggested we try the following method.  While it's not 100% effective, it's the best method we've found so far.  Smear the stain with an extra-thin coating of Vaseline; be careful not to rub the stain in the fabric, though  A Q-tip swab will do the trick.  Next, pour on a liberal amount of grease solvent, and continue to flush the area with it, waiting until each application dries.  After the color appears to lift, soak the garment in mild solution of warm water, two or three drops of ammonia, and a little mild shampoo; keep it soaking for about an hour.  Rinse afterward in warm water and launder immediately afterward.

This will get out wine stains.  Ordinary household cooking salt is your best crack at getting out wine stains, especially red wine.  Rinse the cloth first in cold water.  Pour on a liberal amount of cooking salt ans scrub vigorously with a soft toothbrush.

Tar can easily be removed it a little kerosene.  Easily, that is, if you tackle it before it's been on a piece of clothing for very long.  Tar is one of those stains that you;ll almost certainly get out if you begin work on it quickly enough.  Dip an old toothbrush in a little kerosene and rub vigorously.  Dunk immediately into a hand-wash of detergent and warm water.  Work the stain by scrubbing it with your hands.  You can rinse it in cool water.  Incidentally, only use kerosene if you're sure the fabric is color-fast.

Quick hints about stains:
 * If it's a greasy stain (such as mayonnaise, animal fat, oil, etc) always try a grease solvent first.
 * For really bad rust stains, try a little old fashioned cream of tartar.  Make a heavy paste and let set for half an hour, then rinse well.
 * For blood stains, try meat tenderizer.  Make a heavy paste and let set for half an hour.  When it's dry rinse with cold water.
 * Always try out stain removers on an unseen part of the garment, such as the inside hem or on seam material.  Many solvents and cleaners are too strong for certain fabrics, especially delicate ones and synthetics.  The color-fastness and the wash-ability of a fabric, plus the fiber content determine how you should go about "attacking" a stain.  
 * If, while trying to remove a spot, bleeding occurs, it can usually be halted by adding white vinegar to the water and rinsing the garment.
 * When using "hard" cleaners such as ammonia, try applying them with an eye-dropper to restrict the amount used.
 * Always work near a source of running water when removing stains to allow you to flush the garment in case the solvent you're working with reacts badly to the fabric.  No matter what cleaning agent you use, always remember to rinse it out completely before ironing the garment."

"Chapter 7  THE LAUNDRY

Although most of us would not hesitate to spend any amount on skin care, we are hesitant to do the same for our clothing.  Just like skin, though, our clothes do not really need a host of fancy cleaning aids with catchy names and high price-tags; they need the attention of soap and water and a little personal care  Clothes that are well cared for are clothes that last a long time.  Well cared for clothing retains its shape and smartness for years. After all, to be considered well dressed, is to be considered well groomed.  Our clothing, when it is clean and obviously cared for with respect helps to present a good impression.  Also, the rising price of clothing today makes us consider each piece an investment.  An ill-cared for piece of property returns nothing on it's investment.
Just as dirt and germs attack our skin and cause the cells to be worn away, so do they attack clothing.  Dirty clothing wears out quicker, just as dirty skin creases and erupts in blemishes.  In this chapter, we've compiled hints on how to do laundry, some hints on clothing maintenance, and some smart tips on how to attack specific kinds of dirt.

Vinegar should be used in the final rinse.  White vinegar, about a cup, in the final rinse of your wash, rids them of any excess suds or soap deposits.  It will also soften your clothes naturally, without expensive fabric softeners.
Shampoo makes a great laundry detergent, especially on areas of accumulated body grime.  Shampoos, you see, are formulated to cut through natural body oils.  You may find them especially effective for hand laundering.
Add a little ammonia to your whites.  They'll sparkle and smell fresh if you add about a quarter cup to your wash cycle.  Be careful when adding it to delicate or brightly colored cloths, as they may fade.  
Instead of bleaching, try this: the next time you have stained or heavily soiled whites, add half a cup of lemon juice to the water you use to wash them.  You'll have to use very hot water, so rule out all delicates.
Try this in the rinse.  Pour in a little cream rinse (for hair) the next time you do washable woolens.  Add it during the final rinse.  You'll be pleasantly surprised at how soft and fragrant your clothes come out.
Even your washer needs to be washed once in a while.  Soap film and scum build up easily in washers.  If you're like us, though, you haven't got the time or desire to scrub the inside of your washer.  Instead, run the machine on hot water, normal cycle, and add a bottle of vinegar.  It'll clean your machine in no time flat.
Borax works wonders on bed linens, handkerchiefs, and undergarments.  Not only will it whiten and brighten them, but it will also add a fresh, clean smell.  Borax "hardens" the surface of fabrics, too, so that they withstand soil and grime better.
Chamois and doeskin are washable.  They react well to handwashing in a mild, sudsy solution of warm water and soap.  A few drops of olive oil in the rinse water will soften them again.
Most woolen blankets should be dry-cleaned.  You can, however, wash them youself at home if you keep a few things in mind.
     Don't add detergent (which should be very mild) until the blanket is thoroughly saturated with water.
      Add only a little detergent.
      Wash the blanket only a minute or a minute and a half.  Rinse it for mot more than four minutes.
       Dry it in a cool dryer or spin.  A hot dryer will shrink it.  Don't dry it completely.
Here's a tip when drying blankets, or other large heavy items.  Always throw a few towels into the dryer, too.  They'll cut down on drying time and cushion the blankets.
If you line-dry your clothing, remember this: always dry bright colors inside out.  This keeps them from fading.  If possible, you clothes-line should be placed in the shade, at least partially.
When hand-washing lace, try this: wrap the lace around a clean, empty soda bottle.  It'll be easy to see if you're getting the lace clean, and it'll be far harder to snag.
Here's a tip for starch users.  If you starch your clothes, you should know that starch builds up on the rim of the iron you use to press them.  You can't exactly wash an iron, but there is an easy way to remove the build-up.  Heat your iron to a high heat, or set it on "cotton".  Now, simply "iron" an old paper bag by running your iron over it.  The excess starch will be deposited on the brown bag.  You might also spray your ironing board cover with spray starch.  Starch helps fabric resist dirt longer.
It's always best to under dry.  Over drying of clothing, sheets, or blankets causes unnecessary puckering and is hard on the shape and fabric in general.  Under dry your shirts and immediately put them on a hanger to finish air-drying.  You'll find they wrinkle less and retain their shape better, which means they'll need less ironing.  Many will only require a quick "finger-pressing".
Clothes smell fresher when dried on a clothes-line.  Clothes line drying always brings back a note of nostalgia, of a slower-paced America.  There is no reason why you can't still use a line and dry clothes in the open air.  If you do, however, you should be aware of certain things:
    An old-fashioned rope clothesline may evoke memories, but the elements will rot it.  A wire clothes-line will serve your needs, but to keep from rusting, you should shellack it once a year. 
    They come in plastic now, old-fashioned wooden clothespins will do the job.  Before you put them out in the weather, though, here's a quick tip for acclimating them.  Boil them in vinegar and water, and then let stand until the water cools.  This process strengthens and hardens the wood.
Quick hints for the laundry:
 * Never hang a sweater to dry; block it on a flat surface to maintain its shape and fit.
 * Corduroy can be hand-washed.  Electric dryers actually restore the flattened nap and are good for the cloth.
 * Make sure zippers are up before pants are washed to prevent snags.
 * Feather pillows can be hand-washed; the bath-tub is the ideal container.
 * Hot water and excessive soaking are really hard on non-color-fast clothing.
 * Salt is great additive to the rinse.  Is sets the colors of dark clothing.
 * Never hand knit-wear from a clothesline.
 * Shrunken woolens may "loosen" and stretch if soaked in a creme rinse used for hair."

so much for my summer reading.  The excerpts I chose from "America's Housekeeping Book" published in the 1940's, "Hints from Heloise" published in the 1960's (both posted August 26TH) and "Betty-Anne's Helpful Household Hints" published in the 1980's were all "laundry based" and each of these research materials contained much more information.  I reprinted enough from each (hopefully) to reflect what was important to each era and to show how the culture and language itself had changed in 20 years.  In my next blog, I will talk a little about how I view these changes and discuss what I found to be most interesting in comparing these different times to our own.  Knowing where we've been and where we are makes deciding on where we want to go much easier.